The menu here is modern Asian American, with that somewhat quirky edge we’ve come to expect from Quealy Watson and Jennifer Dobbertin, of Hot Joy and Tenko Ramen. The redo of the historic Mueller House at the Pearl is a delight, with understated furnishings, elegant wallpapers, and a cool bar. Traditional dishes are done so right: large batons of eggplant are cooked to a perfect slithery texture and, like other dishes here, benefit from nuanced sauces. Fat noodles with luscious short rib are bright with five-spice flavor, comfort food for sure. Family style (particularly that salt-and-pepper shrimp) is the way to go; with an entrée order for each person at our four-top, we had plenty to take home. Outdoor dining is between the street and the parking lot but is nicely designed and spacious.