Dining Guide

Biga on the Banks

Big celebrations, buzzy business dinners, romantic trysts—Biga brings the glamour and a menu to match (all the better if you can get a perch on the balcony over the river). Our fave rave this visit: wild game packets on radicchio and Bibb, chicken-fried oysters on beet “noodles,” and an earthy medley of axis venison and quail. The one disappointment (significant, since the vegetarian dishes are often real showstoppers) was a small portion of gooey Gruyère gnocchi, outplayed by a mismatch of vegetables (potatoes, cauliflower) that seemed to be whatever was left in the walk-in.