Despite an odd name and gimmicky concept, the food is worth a trip to this newcomer near the American Airlines Center. The decor evokes a slick, glammed-up saloon (think booths upholstered in tooled leather). Sophisticated, well-executed fare ranges from Gulf snapper crudo (tricked out with peach and orange) to venison tartare (spiced with juniper and studded with tart cherry bits) to Hot Fried Quail, a tasty take on Nashville hot chicken, as well as an interesting wine, beer, and craft cocktail list. If you long for something closer to saloon food, you can get a burger and fries or a bowl of red chili. For dessert: homey cinnamon-spiced cobbler with a biscuit crust.