From a first visit, we would rate Bisou a big step up from the previous River Oaks District tenant, Taverna. The interior is glossy and glam, with handsome marble floors and tables, plush teal chairs and banquettes, a center bar, and dramatic lighting. Our starters both came off well: risotto with cubes of butternut squash and wild mushrooms and accents of crispy brussels sprout leaves and a half dozen grilled oysters with cheese, lardons, and spinach. A lighter dish, a pan-roasted slab of moist Skuna Bay salmon with caponata and preserved lemon, had bits of the fish skin as crisp chips. The best dish proved to be a double pork chop topped with a crust of fresh horseradish and served with white cheddar grits and sautéed greens and tomatoes.