Next to Aledo’s railroad crossing sits a new gem delivering the kind of food you’d more likely find in the city. Successful starters inside the light-filled, modern space include a lovely charcuterie-and-cheese board, as well as Belgian-style mussels in white wine–tomato broth with grilled garlic crostini. A good surprise is seared ahi tuna over chilled rice noodles and shaved asparagus in a basil-ginger-peanut sauce. While the chicken-fried ribeye was fork-tender and its golden jacket light and flaky, the plate was obscured by too much redeye gravy. A welcome, lighter touch is found in the spinach salad topped with smoked beef tenderloin, accented by pickled red onion, fried leeks, and feta with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette.