The handsomely remodeled Pass and Provisions space provides a suitable backdrop for some very fine food from chef Aaron Bludorn. Our recent meal, expertly served on the patio, proved nearly perfect. Try this: delicate squash blossoms with ribbons of red pepper jam, ricotta, and basil; risotto with slivers of asparagus, Meyer lemon, hazelnuts, and heavenly melted robiola bosina; gnocchi strewn with wafer-thin morel mushrooms on a bed of bright green pureed peas; and lamb, both tenderloin and belly, served with apricot, couscous, carrot yogurt, and mint. Both fish entrées also pleased: salmon (with artichoke, curly slivers of carrot, a few unexpected olives, and layered and squared Yukon gold potato) and snowy turbot (with white asparagus, pistachio crumbs, fennel, olive, and preserved lemon). Pro tip: Expect crowds and noise inside; the patio has fans and a quieter vibe.
Cuisine: Modern American