Superstar chef marries a daughter of the local Pappas restaurant family, quits NYC for Houston, and opens an eponymous restaurant—great news in the midst of COVID-19. Order this to go: tender squash blossoms filled with creamy basil-tinted ricotta and topped with sweet pepper jam; cioppino, a silky smooth broth stocked with snowy white crabmeat, snapper, tender shrimp, mussels, clams, and mashed tomatoes. Also a great bet: ravioli stuffed with predictably rich beef from short ribs set off with sweet figs, red onion, and blue cheese. Skip the undercooked carrots. Pro tip: The dining room is open, but the food is just as good to go.
Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.
Cuisine: New American