Though Blue Sushi Sake Grill (say that five times) is an import from Omaha, it’s more than welcome in the Heights, at M-K-T (named for the Missouri-Kansas-Texas rail line). The dining areas are large, warmly lit, boldly colored, and outfitted with glowing Japanese lanterns. An up-tempo sound track adds to the lively vibe. Our one bit of green food, a starter of charred edamame, proved addictive; we couldn’t keep our hands out of the bowl. Three menu pages of sustainably sourced fish from around the world made it hard to choose, but with help we managed. The Dipping Crab dish featured fresh, crunchy fried soft-shells served with pickled daikon and a tempura dipping sauce. The specialty nigiri varied in quality: Cherry Bombs of bigeye tuna with serrano and sriracha were a creamy delight, but the Itchy Salmon—baked Atlantic fish over a spicy crab mix—seemed a bit past its prime. Our sashimi, though—albacore with chimichurri and crab aioli and yellowtail topped with serrano—proved nigh perfect.