The extensive array of restaurants at Pearl Brewery seems to touch every culinary base, particularly the Boiler House’s eclectic mélange of Texan dishes. Where else in town can you get Dr Pepper tomatillo hog jowls? Or bison tartare? But we were more conservative on this visit and went for an appetizer of oysters Casino. With its bacon, butter, peppers, chicharrón “dust,” and grated cheese, it proved one of the best-balanced and best-flavored hot oyster dishes we have had in San Antonio. Less complex but equally good was the salad of mixed greens with its mild champagne vinaigrette. Even the burgers are exotic here; we had the hefty BH Foie Gras Kobe burger, with cheese, tomato marmalade, and even a bit of truffle aioli. Wow. Also excellent was the bacon-wrapped tuna steak, cooked ultra-rare. Noisy and high-ceilinged, the old industrial brewery boiler house has an atmosphere of amiable camaraderie.
City: San Antonio
Cuisine: New American