This upstart sibling of a much-loved family bakery shows she’s got her own legacy in mind. The workman’s staple of a grilled bolillo (the Mexican bread roll that twins as the torta) is a must. As breakfast, it comes with 25 morning standards, including a vinegary chorizo con frijol and the streetwise wines en salsa (yes, oh so small wieners). Come lunch or dinner, they’re stuffed to dizzying heights with fajitas, beef milanesa, or ham and cheese. A house poblano soup is richly decadent with a roasted chile infusion that builds heat gradually. We’ll just lull ourselves into a carb high with eight varieties of enchiladas including the interchangeable entomatadas and envueltos with beef, chicken, and cheese versions. Not tuned to that enchilada bandwidth? Tuck into the plate-buckling crispy chicken-fried chicken, draped in a cream sauce that boasts a zippy jalapeño house remix. No bar, but the in-house bakery’s pastry case is refreshing with a multicolored array of goodies that will happily take its place.
Drinks: No bar