You may think you know chef-owner Philip Speer, the former pastry wizard of the Uchi group. Turns out he has plenty of experience as a savory chef too (he helped open Bank Jean-Georges in Houston and Jean-Luc’s Bistro in Austin, among others). Now he has taken his French training and put it to work with a Gallic-inspired American diner on the bottom floor of a retail-residential development. In a spare but agreeable room tricked out in black and white with red booths, he’s delivering a menu that has enough sophistication to be interesting but not so much that it intimidates his Rosedale clientele. A nicely cooked steak bavette comes on a bed of deep-flavored ratatouille with three panko-crusted onion rings on top. At $38, rotisserie chicken is quite a bargain for a whole bird with assorted root vegetables and cassoulet (although the tender, crisp-skinned bird bested the tough white beans that accompanied it). The signature item is a French take on hash browns: pommes rosti (try the terrific version with applesauce and yogurt). Desserts keep the dual identity going: American devil’s food cake gets a French treatment with multiple layers and dark chocolate ganache, but its topping of milk sorbet recalls nothing so much as everybody’s favorite after-school snack: chocolate cake with a glass of milk.