Remembering that chef Jon Bonnell’s namesake restaurant isn’t just for special dinners, we visited for a celebratory birthday lunch. A perfect sharable starter, the shrimp and grits boasts huge Gulf crustaceans atop a generous pillow of coarse, creamy grits punctuated with spicy andouille sausage and ladled with a thick cheddar sauce that could pass for a lush soup. The soup of interest, however, is the velvety blend of brick-red roasted tomato hinting of jalapeño and tempered with a lavish squiggle of crème fraîche. Cravings for Mexican flavors were tamed in a stack of tender corn tortillas layered with smoked chicken, guajillo sauce, salsa verde, and queso fresco with a guacamole crown. The salad combining perfectly seared tuna with haricots verts, yellow and red baby tomatoes, and quarters of lightly boiled egg hit just the right notes. While the menu, wine list, and starched linens suggest formality, Bonnell’s is really just a place to relax over good food.
City: Fort Worth