A subtle face-lift spiffs up this handsome standby in the southwestern corner of town, where regulars pack both dining room and bar for whatever chef Jon Bonnell’s kitchen is turning out. A new appetizer reminds us of a dressed-up Frito pie: a mound of ground chorizo surrounded by a delicate bunker of queso fresco and topped with pickled jalapeño and julienned carrots, which we scoop up with crisp tortilla chips. Plump fried oysters atop sautéed spinach and tasso ham in a hollandaise drizzle is gratifying, as is the meltingly tender buffalo tenderloin, crusted in cracked pepper and lavished with whiskey-spiked cream sauce. Grilled onion and roasted red peppers mingle with lush rabbit shreds inside supple tortillas for an exotic enchilada plate, which pairs well with the house rosé.
City: Fort Worth
Cuisine: New American