Korean barbecue goes upscale in a beautiful space boasting serene gardens and a modern interior decked out in wood and gleaming metals. The attentive service was welcome, guiding us to items like the seafood pancakes: pan-fried batter studded with bits of shrimp and crab and served with an addictive dipping sauce. Also suggested by our server (and perfect for two), the beef combo included ultra-thin-sliced brisket, marbled short ribs, and marinated Prime beef, grilled in the center of the table. Then came the fun part, mixing and matching the colorful array of garnishes: think watermelon radish, kimchi carrots and kimchi tomatoes, pickled perilla leaves, and matchstick chayote with jalapeños. The adventure is in the combos.