Generously portioned, shareable plates are a big part of the chifa (Peruvian-Chinese) and nikkei (Peruvian-Japanese) adventure here. Chef Geronimo Lopez takes inspiration from his roots to lead diners (most, at least) into unfamiliar territory. What with all the interesting ingredients (yuca, acai, parsnips), every dish manages to both surprise and comfort, not an easy balance to achieve. For example, smoky lomo saltado was topped with a bright-yoked fried egg and served with rice, fries, sweet plantains, and pickled vegetables. The cebiche mixto (scallops, shrimp, and calamari), tinted rosy pink with beets and grapefruit, captured the essence of a sea flecked with sunset. Plating is pretty but not overdone.
City: San Antonio