When you walk past the long mirrored bar into the dining room—dark, cool, and welcoming, white tablecloths crisp and waiting—the music hits first, then the aromas wafting from the kitchen. While the sound track wanders through New Orleans, from zydeco to folk to blues, the menu holds fast to the coast. Start with one of the crispest, coldest house salads ever on offer, and be sure to try the cilantro-lime dressing, a good, bright preamble for the rich dishes to follow. Our waiter said his favorite (now it’s ours) was the brochette: four bacon-wrapped grilled shrimp, stuffed with panela cheese and a sliver of jalapeño, then laid over a bed of spicy dirty rice (note that little bit of SA to go along with the NOLA). Another great dish, the Diablo Pasta takes a perfectly textured lemon butter sauce to new dimensions with slices of serrano and a medley of tender fish and shellfish. Frankly, in its strip center location across from the Dominion (one of three Bourbon Street Kitchens), this place surprised us: what we expected to be a pedestrian meal turned out to be one of the best seafood suppers we’ve had in San Antonio.