Brunch at Brennan’s is a Houston tradition, and plenty of folks on a recent weekend were opting for well-spaced tables and their fill of classic eggs Benedict or Sardou (think artichoke and spinach but still loaded with hollandaise). Try this: Our gumbo, stocked with okra, plump oysters, and shrimp (a bit overcooked) gained from savory onion and a rich broth. The soup of the day, broccoli and cheese, sounded ho-hum but turned out to be thick, creamy, and full-flavored. Our mahimahi Pontchartrain arrived nicely firm, with a mantle of snowy crabmeat and an entourage of fried oysters, cherry tomatoes, and sweet peppers. Pro tip: Brennan’s To-Geaux dinners are available for curbside pickup Tuesday through Sunday. As for dessert, a bananas Foster “kit” includes all the fixings—even a handy lighter for flambéing!