Chef Bryan Gillenwater continues to serve up flame-cooked Hill Country fare with big-city flair in his unpretentious roadside eatery. For starters, we ordered marrow bones: smoky, silky “beef butter” with grilled bread and chimichurri for brightness. Grilled cracker-thin flatbread with caramelized onions proved as good as ever, and the ceviche was fresh and studded with bits of creamy avocado. Entrées feature lots of beef, ranging from a 28-ounce cowboy ribeye to an 8-ounce tenderloin, plus Berkshire pork chops and fish (always salmon and redfish, halibut and others when available), all cooked over Bryan’s signature wood fire. The roasted half-chicken was succulent and juicy, encased in marmalade-glazed skin as crispy as any Peking duck’s. While the buttermilk potatoes are good, the smoked Gouda mac and cheese is better. Plus, the chef’s mother pops in to make desserts, and if her Apfelkuchen is available, order it. You can thank us later.
Back to Results
Bryan’s on 290
Mighty fine dining worth the drive to Johnson City.