Stunning but not stuffy, Bullion fans fresh air into French dining. Neither its gold-swathed second-story perch or swanky, vaguely mid-twentieth-century decor is traditional (no white linens for these glossed wood tables), and that’s as refreshing as chef Bruno Davaillon’s riffs on iconic brasserie dishes, from steak tartare to steak au poivre (it’s bison here). We devoured an order of warm gougères (cheese pastry puffs), then moved on to tasty lamb sirloin, perfectly pink throughout, served with gremolata-dusted roasted eggplant and tomatoes, a fried anchovy, and outstanding pommes frites. The seafood dishes shine, like the cod with lemon-caper butter, roasted tomato, and Meyer lemon supremes, perched atop a fluffy brandade. Millefeuille made with compressed puff pastry sheaths proved a brilliant dessert makeover.