We were standing well back in line for a late lunch at Burnt Bean when one of the owners stepped outside to deliver bad news: “Folks, I’m afraid we’re going to run out of brisket in about ten people.” His warning proved correct. We thanked him for his courtesy and vowed to return, considerably earlier, the next day. That’s typical of the thoughtful service you get at this sterling addition to the Central Texas barbecue pantheon. The attractively remodeled commercial building, with bare brick walls and sky-high ceilings, is the perfect place to savor brisket with an impressively thick crust covering a thin layer of translucent fat. The pork ribs are beauts too, with great texture and just a hint of sweetness. Listen as you bite into the coarse-ground sausage: you’ll hear a satisfying snap. Barbecue fans who walk on the mild side will be grateful for the exceptional smoked turkey breast, and big groups will be thrilled with the variety of sides, including the gently seasoned cowboy beans (soupy in the good old-fashioned way) and the excellent street corn pudding. At the end of the long, efficiently run counter, you’ll find an array of Instagrammable desserts. If you must choose between the Big Red tres leches cake and the chocolate cake with fudgy icing, go with the second (though it’s not available every day). And check the chalkboard for daily features, such as the huge, gloriously fatty pork steak we had one Thursday.