Gazing across the reflecting pool at the giant silvery tree sculptures on the museum’s grand lawn, it’s hard to pull back from daydreaming to focus on the subject at hand: chef Denise Shavandy’s cuisine artistry. Doing so, however, we’re rewarded with the contrast of slightly salty fresh white anchovies against the silken sweetness of roasted piquillo peppers in vinaigrette, which we piled onto crunchy crostini. Then there’s light, satiny redfish stained with turmeric and scattered with toasty almond slices over Thai red curry butternut squash, buffered by a petite bunker of black lentils. The only near miss of late, the pork carnitas sandwich on toasted ciabatta, lacked flavor in the meat itself, though Oaxaca cheese, pickled onion, sliced jalapeño, and salsa verde provided fine support. The pleasure of biting into Sicilian ricotta cheesecake with dabs of lemon curd and pomegranate puree and a few broken pistachios cannot be overstated; ditto for the delight of a Turkish coffee truffle alongside an espresso.
City: Fort Worth