Cappy’s snappy but relaxed ambience fits right in with its tony Alamo Heights neighborhood. We ate on a pleasant, quiet outdoor deck, tended by a waitress both amiable and helpful. Everywhere we probed the menu we came up with a winner, starting with six small grilled oysters with garlic butter and herbs. Another fine appetizer was a duck- and chicken-liver pâté with plenty of flavor and just a hint of sweetness; we couldn’t be sure but we guessed apricot (note: the pâté is plenty for two). The kitchen really gets going with the main courses; we enjoyed both the rack of lamb (moist, tender, flavorful), with a ragout of butter beans and eggplant, and the ribeye steak (though lamentably rare, it was saved by a rich bone marrow–butter sauce). In short, Cappy’s serves solidly upscale food without going overboard and pleases lots of diners.
City: San Antonio