Hugo Ortega’s Caracol is one of our favorites. Mexican seafood is his focus, but he does just fine with, say, chicken enchiladas. Order this to go: the ostiones asados. Wood-roasted with cheese, chipotle butter, and toasted bread crumbs, the oysters traveled surprisingly well; the heat of the shells kept them warm, and a few moments in the oven perked them up. Ditto the carnitas taquitos: crispy rolled pork tacos with avocado-tomatillo salsa and queso fresco. The sturdy horchata flan danced its way through traffic. Pro tip: Unfortunately, fish disappointed. Seared tuna tacos and the pescado zarandeado (butterflied and grilled) deserve to be savored on-site. Ditto for the pan-roasted duck, though the accompanying plantain molotes were delicious.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.