Under the watchful eye of the Carpenters’ Union flag, diners in this airy room can enjoy a meal in a hotel where the locals go. The wine list held quaffable treasures by the glass, and although the fried oyster mushrooms lost their delicate flavor and texture under heavy breading, the delightful beef tartare toast with tiny disks of radish was a treat. Broccolini with a garlicky kick was unexpectedly savory, and subtle South Asian notes—tamarind in one sauce (accompanying the mushrooms) and smoke in another (bathing head-on prawns)—were genius. Tiles of strip steak served with a mint leaf salad gave continuity to the flavors. Pro tip: reservations are a good idea for dinner.
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Eclectic Texas-y dishes in the Carpenter Hotel.