One step inside a Mule Alley shotgun space and we’re transported to New York’s Little Italy. Intimate and quiet, with leather banquettes and low lighting, Tim Love’s glamorous ode to old-school Italian comes with sides of lavish service and complimentary prosecco, shaved prosciutto, and chunks of aged Parmesan. Light, lovely starters included silken escolar crudo, sparked up by Calabrian chiles, mollified by avocado, and crowned by a citrusy granita, and shaved asparagus and artichoke hearts, lightly teased with spicy red chile, studded with pine nuts, and drizzled in red wine vinaigrette. Bypassing the ultra-pricey NY strip ($162!), we found plenty to love in the hubcap-size, crunchy-crusted veal chop Parmesan with unfettered marinara, melted mozzarella, and fresh basil. Handmade pastas, particularly the rigatoni in red vodka sauce, are sublime. Note that jackets are required for men, and cell phones must be tucked into provided neoprene sleeves at the table for the meal’s duration.