Dining Guide

Century Bar & Grill

Hotels (as opposed to motels) and their restaurants seem to be making a comeback in West Texas. Here the Old World decor speaks of sophistication, even if you order the platter-filling chicken-fried tenderloin with an ice cream scoop of mashed Yukon Golds. There was hardly room for either, though, after grazing through the Chef’s Cutting Board appetizer; shaved cured meat and local cheeses surround a warm miniature baked Brie. The menu has shrunk since the last time we visited, but there is plenty of variety, particularly if you also consult the bar menu.