Cross the raked-gravel courtyard, preferably armed with reservations, and enter the sleek dining room done in calm gray and the bold red of the restaurant’s name. The onsite garden contributes a great deal to the excellent fare, although it probably doesn’t provide the salmagundi of fungi, including black truffles, in the wonderfully tangy risotto. Tapas of house-made pâtés and seared pork belly with pickled watermelon over wilted greens balance decadence with reserve. The standout at our table, though, was a crispy fried whole trout served with a charred chile pepper—an unexpected but fabulous combination. Our servers were never more than a glance away.
Cuisine: New American