Dining Guide

Cochineal

Reopened on September 1, Cochineal has the same clever name and classy look. But the kitchen has been reinvented under Alexandra Gates, the new chef and owner, who has transformed the New American menu with European and Asian touches. Small plates hold bold flavors, from whitefish pâté to hearty shrimp with roasted chiles in an herbed oil. Our biggest surprise turned out to be a delicious bison tartare, ground almost into a paste and served with cute pillows of crisp pastry. Servers deliver with smiles and enthusiasm.