Heaven knows Austin does not lack for excellent Mexican food. But until April of 2019, it didn’t have a high-style Mexican destination with emphatically modern cuisine. No más. Comedor has more than filled that niche with a beautifully tended, minimalist courtyard, a sleek concrete-and-steel dining room, and a menu that can be compared without qualification to the best in Mexico City. The range is dazzling, and frequently changing. You might start with the likes of a yellowfin tuna aguachile (similar to ceviche or crudo) spiked with chile costeño and smoky charred cucumber. There are scandalously rich bone marrow tacos to be had, topped with citrusy pecan gremolata and a brilliant sprinkle of brûléed brown sugar (the tortillas alongside are made in-house using corn sourced from Mexico). Desserts are as daring as they are fun. An ivory-white chamomile mousse snuggles up to sharp, sweet pink guava sorbet and sports a couple of Oaxaca’s famous edible chicatana ants (for the bold and the Instagrammers). Tequila and mezcal enthusiasts will pore over the formidable list. Who’s in charge here? The talented trio of chefs Philip Speer, Gabe Erales, and Alan Delgado.