Stylish, yet relaxed, this hot spot welcomes with a chic L.A. vibe. Floating Japanese lanterns, lush potted palms, blond woods, and curvy banquettes frame a dining room that screams “date night” (the Shag Room—a secluded mirrored cocktail lounge—is a bit over the top, though). The locally sourced menu, created by chef Matt McCallister, is impressive. We nearly stuffed ourselves with the Whipped Ricotta Toast, the grilled bread topped with earthy kale pesto, fluffy cheese, and microgreens. Farm-fresh radishes with bottarga and seaweed butter made a lighter starter, and crispy salt cod fritters with “fancy tartar” were a fun riff on the classic tapa. Silky pappardelle with luscious beef cheek ragù was outstanding; little hits of horseradish gave the dish a nice yet subtle kick. Tasty Texas wagyu short ribs had a dense, steaklike texture; the accompanying baby turnips and maitake mushrooms in aerated hollandaise paired nicely. Sweet potato cheesecake made a comforting finale.