Spying only about ten tables in the sleek interior one mild winter day, we headed instead for Concura’s spacious courtyard. A classic from yesteryear, veal in tuna sauce (vitello tonnato), came with a welcome twist: pink, wafer-thin slices of meat wrapped around dollops of tuna paste and garnished with cornichons and orange slices. Another starter, tuna tartare atop burrata cheese, was fine if a bit underseasoned. Our pasta, passatelli (tubular and al dente) in a creamy sauce topped with truffles, also proved rich and satisfying, though we still managed to polish off a chocolate-and-hazelnut roll served with Parmesan gelato.