When we visited this joint, which is housed in a former gas station and bus stop, we anticipated the meat, of course, but also the much-raved-about sides, specifically the popular Carrot Dip Dip: roasted carrots blended with onion, garlic, and red pepper, sprinkled with pepitas, and flanked by Fritos Scoops. Alas, there was no Dip Dip that day, but no matter. The menu brimmed with inventive twists on old favorites, such as a rack of St. Louis–cut ribs slathered in Old Bay seasoning, brisket tucked into tortillas, and a satisfyingly crunchy kale salad. The juicy whole chicken, bursting with deep and smoky flavors, stole the show.