Cookhouse is about as close as you can get to NOLA without boarding train, plane, or automobile. At lunch, our Peacemaker po’boy was spot-on, with crispy fried Gulf oysters, cured-on-site bacon, and lettuce, tomato, and mayo on a passable, if not totally believable, roll. And the gumbo was rich, made with a proper roux and loaded with sausage and plenty of spice—just the thing for cool-weather comfort. Dinner moves a bit upmarket in offerings (duck, redfish, blackened drum), style (table service and dinnerware), and price ($26–$30 entrées), but the accent and attitude remain Cajun, Creole, and soulful. The low-ceilinged dining room sports proper white linen topped with paper, atmospheric Edison bulbs, and live music many weekends.