Inner-city fans of fiery Szechuan peppers can forgo the freeway foray out Bellaire Boulevard. In the heart of Montrose (on Fairview, no less), sisters Yunan Yang and Lily Luo are dishing up authentic, lip-tingling fare from organic ingredients. Go early, hunt for a parking spot, then dive into a bowl of dandan noodles, garlic-flavored cucumbers, and slowly braised, meltingly tender “soft bacon” enhanced by minced preserved greens. Crispy, not-too-sweet orange beef also won our raves, as did picture-perfect pots of tea revealing floating rosebuds. Only a bland, rubbery Kung Pao chicken disappointed.