Cuishe Cocina Mexicana
The original Cuishe Cocina, on Stone Oak Parkway, has spawned a new and hopefully popular location downtown in the so-called Espee area, the rebranded Sunset Station near the Alamodome. (To understand the odd name, it helps to know a little local lore: The tracks in the vicinity were on the California route of the Sunset Limited, part of the Southern Pacific Railroad. That historic line is referred to as “the SP” by train buffs. Got it?). Cuishe’s new space, in a pleasant, tall-ceilinged older building, had little lunch traffic midweek, but our friendly waitress said it was quite a bit livelier in the evening and on weekends. Try this: Tartly marinated carpaccio de lengua (made with super-thin-sliced calf’s tongue) came dotted with bright triangles of avocado, slivers of red onion, and cilantro, great for whetting the appetite before an order of fried tacos de canasta (a basketful of six little fried-corn-tortilla tacos—two each of refried black bean, potato mashed with chorizo, and the Mexican favorite of chicharron stewed in salsa verde). The huge menu spans everything from guacamole with lobster to the seldom seen sábana, which Texans might think of as a very thin chicken-fried steak topped with black beans, green salsa, and melted cheese. You’d swear you were deep in Mexico’s interior, the flavors are so true. Pro tip: There’s metered parking on Sycamore, around the corner from the restaurant entrance.
City: San Antonio