A sleek remodel of the former Bistro Lancaster makes a fine dining room for the newly renovated Lancaster Hotel. We started well, with juicy meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce studded with sliced olives (served with grilled bread for mopping up) and a refreshing soup of roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions, with basil and light cream. A lovely line of tender chunks of short rib meat—with avocado, queso fresco, radish, mango slaw, and pickled red onions—proved a taco-perfect filling for corn tortillas, with a side of salsa verde. Our pan-seared salmon, though, came with overly salty spinach, and a Creole rémoulade was too mustardy for our tastes.