With the first bite from the towering chopped brisket sandwich at David’s Barbecue in Pantego, you might think that this is what Sonny Bryan’s used to taste like when it made it on everyone’s “best of” barbecue lists. Owner and pitmaster Jimmy Harris is part of the Bryan barbecue family. Elias Bryan, who opened a barbecue joint in Oak Cliff in 1910, was Sonny’s grandfather and Harris’s great grandfather. At David’s, Jimmy has all the family secrets to work with, including the barbecue sauce recipe. That sauce is what covered the generous and juicy mound of meat between two sides of a buttered bun. Filling for sure, but this was good smoky meat and crust bound together by plenty of fat and the smoky sauce fortified with brisket drippings.