This lounge-y steakhouse’s dim lighting, crescent-shaped booths, and circular bar conjure a sixties-era Hollywood club; wall murals filled with celebrity caricatures hammer that theme home. During our dinner on a Sunday (live jazz night!), an old-school piano-sax duo played over the din of patrons clad in denim and leather. Our server explained that the weekend DJ nights are even livelier. Besides steakhouse favorites, the menu features meat-centric pizzas and a French dip sandwich (it comes on a sweet, eggy bun, with a rosemary jus). A vegetarian riff on General Tso’s chicken made a guilt-free appetizer: roasted cauliflower florets coated in a clingy, spicy-sweet sauce. A juicy sixteen-ounce New York strip was perfectly cooked to order and came in a suitably peppery au poivre sauce. The menu’s Vin Scully Fries are decadently topped (smoked cheddar, bacon, ranch dressing); we asked for a plain version and weren’t disappointed.
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This steakhouse in Devonshire is vintage and clubby but still casual.