South is the cardinal direction of the decade. This recent entry to that geographical culinary category keeps it classic with a menu heavy on fried foods, with a few on-point trends thrown in. Just outside the gates of Fort Sam Houston, the repurposed house on the highway access road has been countrified with barn wood and an old kitchen range that holds the menus. The blue-plate lunch specials range from pierogi and tamales to chili and fish and chips, and the rest of the menu continues in that people-pleasing vein, with oyster po’boys, CFS, and, our choice, the EK Steakhouse Butter Burger: a thing to behold, it includes caper aioli, smoked bacon, bacon jam, steak sauce, cheddar, and pickles. Somehow it all works. Service is knowledgeable when time allows.
City: San Antonio
Address: 2119 N. I-35, San Antonio, TX, 78208
Hours: L Mon–Fri. D Mon–Sat. B Sat & Sun.
Last updated: July 23, 2019