Dining Guide

Ebesu Robata & Sushi

Although the menu includes traditional Japanese food, the chef’s modern riffs are the standouts at this historic-district restaurant. Among our favorites was skewered uzura mentaiko: quail eggs with spicy grilled cod roe and togarashi mayo. Super-Long Niku (“meat”) was another winner; a beefy take on pressed sushi, it featured lean, velvety-tender steak with peppery arugula paste in lieu of wasabi. Kurobuta (Berkshire pork) sausage with grainy mustard seemed scarcely different from Western sausage—hardly a culinary adventure. Miso-marinated black cod paired well with its plate-mates: grilled shishito peppers and tiny beech mushrooms. Seared Maine lobster impressed us with its Japanese accents, a slather of uni sauce and a side of silken sea-urchin custard. For a perfect fusion finale, we shared a creamy matcha tiramisu, served in a wooden sake box.