If you haven’t ventured north of Austin recently, you may have missed the explosion of new Asian eateries. Taking the former space of a chain restaurant, Ebisu breathes new life into the spot with spiffed-up rooms and a sleek bar where you can have a cocktail or sake from a carefully curated list and a copious shrimp tempura–stuffed caterpillar roll. The sprawling menu hits both Japanese and Korean highlights, and what the sushi lacks in deftness, it makes up for in portion size. Smoky, spicy edamame is worth mentioning, even if the addictive pods take up stomach space better reserved for an enormous mound of uni nigiri. The hamachi comes amped up with slivers of serrano pepper under a jungle of cilantro leaves, while the dense tamago nigiri makes a lightly sweet finish.
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A varied selection of sushi in smart, suburban digs.