Loop-bound traffic finds a worthy detour to El Capataz, with its tidy assortment of dine-in and takeaway treasures that are sure to encourage return visits. Try this: the pan-roasted salmon perched atop warm slices of nopalito (young cactus pad), all nicely dressed with a brilliant citrus vinaigrette spiked with smoky pasilla chile. Codfish tacos often bear the proud badge of coastal comfort food. What’s to improve? Meet their Laredo cousins, the beloved Taquitos Mar de Cortez (ignore that Laredo is landlocked, naturally). Here, the cod is bedded and fried in panko, then the golden morsels are tucked into fat corn tortillas lashed with a bewitching chipotle crema and festooned with crunchy and colorful cabbage and radish. Add to the comfort level with a tequila chimichurri–infused queso blanco, best spread luxuriantly on a thick house baguette. Pro tip: Cheer yourself on with the impressive selection of house ales and craft beers.