Capataz is still a go-to got-to for guests and a see-you-there for locals. We’ll take a pound of steamed mussels, topped with an unctuous garlic cream and a piquillo pepper sauce that begs to be bottled. Then it’s on to a Peruvian-style ceviche (perhaps shared) that includes roasted corn, sweet potato, and both serrano and aji amarillo chile marinades. Dads seem honor-bound to order the El Capataz Burger, a half-pound of Angus beef topped with chorizo-spiked Swiss cheese, sautéed mushrooms, and escabeche onions. Dessert brings the incomparably crunchy clouds known as Sopaipillas Capataz: golden dough puffs dusted with cinnamon sugar, drizzled with piloncillo-steeped honey, and served with a vanilla bean–infused ice cream.