El Capataz has artfully transitioned to food to go and retained its high quality along the way. Order this to go: The Taquitos Mar de Cortez can convince you that there is hope for takeout fish. Cod is rolled in panko and fried to perfection, dressed with chipotle cream and a colorful sprinkle of cabbage and radishes, then folded into an impressively thick corn tortilla—Baja without the beach. Seeking more comfort? Spoon up the archetypal Fideo de la Abuela, a spot-on version bracketed with ample bits of avocado, queso fresco, lime, and a lace-like drizzle of crema. Pro tip: A rotating cast of ales merits exploration, perhaps with some appetizers like the tequila-brightened queso borracho or the roasted corn dressed with cotija cheese, zipped up with harissa spice, and topped with crispy bits of chicharrón.
Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.