Revamped and reopened, El Mirador now offers a spiffed-up interior with banana leaf murals, a lightened-up bar with a gorgeous tile floor, a big neon sign, and a new menu with a few old favorites. And a great big new patio, the best improvement by far. The menu includes Mexican and Tex-Mex standards and suggests that Maria Treviño’s recipes still hold sway (she was the original cook and owner, who presided here into her eighties). We found that to be true and then some, with carnitas both juicy and crunchy simultaneously—first marinated in Coca-Cola, then slow roasted and fried for the crunch. Mole enchiladas were dressed in an appropriately complex earthy-sweet sauce, with tender tasty chicken filling and house-made corn tortillas. Not up to expectations: a watery, totally bland table salsa (despite the roasted bits) and strangely seasoned refried beans.
City: San Antonio