Elemi, the highly sophisticated “taqueria,” that caught everyone’s culinary attention and was named a James Beard semifinalist in 2023, has completed its move to far east El Paso and is open again, at last, better than ever and definitely worth the trip. This larger location, attractively industrial and a bit arty, is packed with both curious newcomers and established fans of thirty-nine-year-old local chef Emiliano Marentes. The menu has many old favorites, including its tortillas and other masa specialties (made from corn that is processed daily on site). The huarache, a flat, thick tortilla variant (the name means “sandal”), comes piled with locally cultivated corn and a fabulous mash of black beans, green chorizo, nopales, and queso fresco. Quite a change of pace, the scallop aguachile (a ceviche cousin, but less “cooked” by its citrus marinade) makes you feel like you are eating seafood on the beach at Cabo San Lucas. Vegetarian types will appreciate the brusselas, grilled brussels sprouts with goat cheese crema and a balsamic agave syrup, also the cauliflower with almond mole and cashew crema. Meat eaters have multiple taco choices, including brisket (suadero) and pato al pastor (that would be grilled duck). As for those who want something light, the chicharrón de pescado is filled with perfectly fried wild-caught cod, accompanied by lime aioli. To wash it all down there are cocktails like the tamarind daiquiri as well as Mexican craft beers and wine from Baja California. For dessert? Arroz con leche—a highly original rice and chia pudding with coconut milk and pineapple piloncillo. Reservations are a must.