Chef Elliot Roddy’s small, bustling Heights restaurant is both energizing and comforting, and the food is eclectic, satisfying American with a Southern bent. Roasted oysters with salt pork, Parmesan, and herb butter neared greatness with their splash of charred citrus; the addition of smoked pork made an ordinary mac and cheese a delight. What could have been a ho-hum roasted beet salad was perfection here, with arugula, prosciutto, goat cheese, and balsamic pecans. Creole seasoning on a vermillion snapper had just enough bite to flavor but not overwhelm the fish, and a generous baseball-cut New York strip, served with some of the best home-style fries we’ve crunched through, arrived cooked a just-right medium-rare. Only a heavy key lime cake disappointed.
Drinks: Beer & wine