With a limited presence at their downtown venue, you’re more likely to catch Levelland transplants Andrew and Jewel Hill serving oak-smoked meats from modest mobile digs, like at the downtown brewery where we found them. Don’t miss the tender brisket, crackly-crusted with coarse pepper. Pork ribs were equally good, slightly sweet and not too soft. Even the sausage, though visually underwhelming, proved flavorful with jalapeño, cheddar, and onion. While meats were delectable, it was the humblest of sides that made the meal. We kept coming back to the spicy vinegar tang of the pinto beans alongside piles of house-made pickles and pickled red onion, acidic complements to the rich, fatty meat.