Chef Matt Balke, formerly of Bolsa, Smoke, and the Rustic, helms the kitchen at this Bishop Arts newcomer, in the space where Bolsa operated for twelve years. The menu shows Southern, Texan, and Californian influences, with plenty of crowd pleasers and a few adventurous offerings. Order this to go: Gigantic and rich ricotta gnocchi bathe in a delicious broth loaded with roasted wild mushrooms, crumbled fennel sausage, and braised leeks; they’re topped with a garlicky pecan gremolata and grated pecorino cheese. Peppercorn-rimmed beef-cheek pastrami makes a fine, shareable starter; the thick slices come with buttery toasts and smoky pimento cheese. Pro tip: Order online for curbside pickup.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.