Our foursome’s recent meal at this sleek, well-managed beauty earned raves. Lightly fried cornmeal-crusted oysters, tender and juicy, vied with hefty hearth-roasted oysters loaded with shrimp, blue crab, and bread crumbs drizzled with brown butter. It was a tie. A smoked-chicken-and-sausage gumbo had a deep roux and tender meat with some happy heat. Nicely browned roasted chicken came with asparagus, carrots, and natural jus. And crawfish étouffée on “à la Harry” green noodles (a nod to Harry Cipriani) worked surprisingly well. Those who normally resist their broccoli should try Eunice’s charred broccolini spiked with Parmesan, lemon, and jalapeños. Finally, with some squabbling, we shared a caramel-and-pecan bread pudding.