The first Feges BBQ opened in Houston’s Greenway Plaza food court, in 2018, with as much emphasis on sides as smoked meats. It hasn’t slowed down since we named it one of the 25 best new barbecue joints in 2019, and a second location, with an even more ambitious menu, opened fifteen minutes away, in the Spring Branch district, earlier this year. There, fried chicken and a porcini-rubbed hanger steak join sweet-glazed pork ribs, Big Red brisket burnt ends, and juicy smoked chicken. Excellent accompaniments include the elote salad and Money Cat potatoes (imagine a potato burnt end bathed in a barbecue sauce made with Korean chile paste). But the spicy Korean greens might be the best barbecue side dish in Texas, so sop up that pot liquor with a wedge of hog-fat cornbread.