We’ll never disparage catfish again, thanks to chef James Robert’s convincing rendition, fried in feather-light batter, dusted with herbs, and served with kimchi collards. Smoky grilled quail over a soft pillow of grits with pecans and pickled pears inspires reverent sighs at our table, and the juicy-tender Duroc pork shoulder, drizzled in a vibrant jalapeño-kale emulsion over pinto beans, deeply satisfies. Robert’s extraordinary cloudlike biscuits, it must be noted, are what’s surely served in heaven at every meal. The design details at this new Clearfork space evoke a sense of the chef’s Louisiana roots.
City: Fort Worth