When in need of a Southern-food fix, this West 5th Street spot will suffice. But there are a few dos and don’ts when dining here. Do absolutely order biscuits upon arrival. Warm and fluffy, they are wonderful with whipped butter flavored with Steen cane syrup and blackberry preserves. Do try the sweet-tea pickles, a light and perky way to savor the season’s garden vegetables. Don’t be surprised that the rather small portion of fried chicken is a bit undersalted and underwhelming, especially for the $21 price. Don’t fret if the deconstructed tuna muffaletta—small morsels of seared tuna, olives, and overly crunchy pumpernickel—doesn’t quite come together for you; it was a stretch for us as well. The sixteen-ounce dry-aged steak was perfectly prepared and delicious with a smear of whipped Gouda sauce, as was the tender snapper “blackened” with squid ink and served over a sweet broth with corn, plump rock shrimp, cherry tomatoes, and farro. Creamy grits with wilted kale, red bell pepper, and a just-right poached egg proved that Southern food should indeed be simple and not overthought.