Chef Ben Merritt makes brunch the most celebrated meal of the week at his split-level bistro, with carafes of Bloody Marys and mimosas whetting the crowd’s appetite for gussied-up renditions of stick-to-your-ribs goodness. Our favorite starter is the plate of lightly battered beet fries with crispy edges, perfect for dipping into the creamy, chile-spiked aioli and then the dry, crunchy mix of crushed pepitas laced with spicy lime flavors. Inside a deep bowl of chilaquiles, an ample bed of crisp tortilla chips coated in salsa roja is topped with a large fried egg, thickly crumbled feta, avocado and radish slices, salsa verde, and snipped cilantro for a deft balance of tangy, creamy, and salty. Slow-roasted pulled pork shreds, a pair of poached eggs, and a velvet blanket of salsa verde–laced hollandaise tops a cloudlike biscuit duo for a hearty pork carnitas Benedict. Creamy green chile–spiked white cheese grits on the side gilds the lily, but it’s Sunday, so why not?
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Casual gastropub on booming Near Southside.