Dining Guide

Fonda Don Martin

The menu at this cozy neighborhood taqueria moves far beyond the comfort of typical tacos. It all begins with flour tortillas coaxed out before your eyes by hands that have a rhythm all their own. We like to fill ours with chipotle-braised meatballs, decadent little orbs we bracket with thin slivers of avocado. Little-seen treats like tacos al vapor may make your tia’s eyes mist, in the good way; herein, the chile-infused tortillas are sublimely stuffed with steamed potatoes and dressed with crisp cabbage, tomatoes, and a garlicky salsa roja. The fajita platter is an exercise in joyful excess, best shared with loved ones happy to dispatch grilled goodness that includes onions and chiles. Come back for breakfast and watch those tortillas embrace vinegary chorizo and fluffy eggs, the definitive way to begin the weekend countdown.